Quiet extravagance

Quiet extravagance is everywhere in the A/W 2024.25 collections. It feels strangely original when all it takes is a slight shift, a minor tweak and a seemingly obvious detail to create something new and alternative. Something designers may have thought about but never put into action. Unusual knots and folds for 3.1 Phillip Lim and…

Imperfect

An apparent defect or signs of wear and tear that you want to prevent being seen become the characterising features of the garment for A/W 2024.25. Cuts, ladders and holes are used to elevate rather than devalue pieces. From a bon-ton, controlled style, like David Koma’s little bows or Stella McCartney’s buttons, to highlighting defects…

Family tricot

Riding a wave of nostalgia, the Family tricot style is ready to invade wardrobes in 2024 under the guidance of tradition, comfort and quality. For A/W 2024.25 Dior and Chanel provide a literal interpretation of dark and neutral colours, while Missoni updates every granddad’s favourite, the maxi cardigan, with bold tints and a puffy, rounded…

Total knitwear

On these chilly winter mornings we would all like to feel the comfort and softness of snuggling up in a blanket. Total look knitwear comes to our aid with style and imagination for A/W 2024.25. Not just comfort but also personality, like Sacai’s sunflower yellow and Missoni’s lamé, while Diesel’s cutting-edge style comes up against…

Barbiecore twinset

Barbiecore is impossible to ignore when it comes to “matching sets” for the S/S 24 Pre-Collections. Carolina Herrera and Chanel propose caramel colours while Antonio Marras and Blumarine offer a more floral, romantic take. Veronica Beard proposes pretty, decorated styles in line with the trend, while Off-White features bon-ton checks and stylised designs. Missoni and…

Versatile cardigan

The profound rewrite of womenswear basics also involves the cardigan. For the S/S 24 Pre-Collections, it is almost like an impalpable duster coat for Diesel and Missoni. N°21 proposes mini metallic shimmers, Ermanno Scervino a zipped basic piece and Anna Sui a net-like, wide-sleeved version. While the style is classic, colour adds an injection of…

A warm embrace

Big cables, ribs, roses, decorations, embellishments. In the S/S 2024 Pre-Collections, a sweater alone is not enough. Even a classic needs an extra tweak, as shown by the experiments into shades of white and sand by Chloé, Jil Sander and Victoria Beckham. Floral-themed designs ranging from basic (Max Mara) to pops of bright colour (MSGM)…

The long summer

The long, sunny season. A single hot wave, a single warm embrace inside body-con dresses and lively textures. The S/S 2024 Pre-Collections focus closely on colour: from aqua green at David Koma and Lanvin to impalpable green at Stella McCartney through yellow at Carolina Herrera. All in sorbet versions, little treats for cooling down. Like…

Stronger together

Twin-sets, matching sets, perfect combinations: knitwear discovers its strength by combining elements. The A/W 23.24 pre-collections feature a range of little sweaters and mini-skirts in cool blue from 3.1 Phillip Lim and Missoni, wisteria-coloured cardigans and crop tops with appliqués like the one from Philosophy or big heart designs as seen at MSGM. The layers…

Embrace me, dress!

The pre-collections present a number of different styles. But amongst the variety is a shared focus on fit, shape and drape. Tight and body-con in pale shades of ice and grey for Missoni and MM6 Maison Margiela. By Malene Birger and Victoria Beckham prefer a gentle flared shape in cool pastels. Stella McCartney’s chunky knit…