“Give me a lever and a fulcrum and I shall move the Earth”
Archimedes
Many complain about the too high cost of sustainability, others
argue that sustainable production is unsuitable for creating trendy knitwear .
Stylists are the revolution’s protagonists and have the important task of drawing the right lever to find the balance between beautiful and sustainable.
“Style can reshape the destiny of the world.”
First of all through a revolution of shapes and measures. Current modeling draws the human body into a rigid and very classic vision of the limbs and their positions.
But the canons of behaviour have completely changed and even the poses and measured movements of the past are updated by much more casual poses and a more dynamic bearing.
New wider models emerge, more open necklines, sleeves with wider biceps and raglan that stretch to the waist. The knitwear follows the fabric’s patterns and creates de-structured shapes that favour movement and do not shape in the figure. The revolution of shapes is the reflection of an approaching of the roles between man and woman that merge and overlap in a continuous development of models, both in sizes and shapes. It is not a gender fashion but a universal fashion; is a fashion that takes into account that the physiognomy of the modern man is far away from the scientific gender distinction between men and women.
Eliminating double collections and letting women and men run off together in a single universe is more natural and sustainable.
Sustainability starts with the choice of yarns for the new collections; working organic yarns is really important because farms and industrial crops can cause far-reaching environmental pollution.
The use of recycled yarns (pre consumer and post consumer) is a very sustainable choice as it greatly reduces waste and world over-production.
However, the use of traditional yarns should not be overlooked, as it determine the handing down of millenary productive cultures that represent the soul of textile culture.
Even through the choice of numeric number’s yarns for the new collections the choices can become sustainable.
Alongside the increasingly advanced industrial electronic machines it is also very important to work with organic fibres, with traditional gauges and thickness as it is the perfect way to restore luster to ancient Bentley-Cotton looms recovered through electronic heads that allow you to create garments with modern shapes but with a touch that has the flavour of history.
The jersey knit on gauge 7 and 12 recovers an inter-temporal dimension of contemporary vintage. But to contrast the traditional mono dimensionality of the jersey stitch, embroideries, cornellys and applications invade the field.
To face winter in harmony with nature, twisted wool yarns and thick gauges of carded yarns are perfectly combined. Donegal like, silk tweed superbulky yarns are perfect in this sparkling new vintage.
Another and very important step towards sustainability is given by yarn dyes.
The pure colors of Iceland are the color wheel within which the collections are developed.
For sustainable winter we leave strong and too bright colors, artificially created by bleached bases and welcome pastel colors, aged colors, the chains of ecru in every shade.
The tones of greens, lichens, frozen earth, moss accompanied by the deep blues, the winter sea blues and leaden sky.
These colours marry beautifully with the tridimensional stitches and 1×1 and 2×1 ribs. Nature asks us to listen to it even in colours combinations and playful mix of patterns.
And while we wait for the first snow, we design beautiful knitted dresses, and comfortable suits, in natural whites with a perennial flavour.
What more could you ask for from the new knitted collection?
That il could speak and communicate for us that we cannot circulate, that knit could send our message around the world.
So the desire to write words, phrases and, why not, emojis and #hashtag remains on the knitwear. However, the novelty in the current era is that the traditional inlays are replaced by embossed cornelly embroideries and the writings take on volume and are showing up with the combination of strong colors on neutral knitted fabrics.